There are plenty of things I avoid because they feel too complicated: financial planning, organizing group vacations… Washing my face, though, never seemed like one of them. Surely it’s simple: cleanse in the morning, cleanse at night, and done. Right?
Except I’ve somehow landed on the side of social media that overanalyses everything — and now cleansing is up there, too. Suddenly I’m wondering if I’ve been doing it wrong all along: overdoing it, doing it badly, being far more aggressive than I’d like to admit. So I asked Joshua Zeichner, MD, a dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, to set the record straight and put a few cleansing myths to bed.
One school of thought I can’t seem to escape is that washing your face in the morning is the ultimate skincare sin. Everyone from facialists to skincare enthusiasts extol the virtues of a simple splash of water — no cleanser — or even nothing at all, with some claiming their skin has never looked better: think plump, dewy, and smooth.
Is there any truth in it? Let’s get the basics out of the way first. “Cleansing is the basis of the skincare routine,” says Dr. Zeichner. “It provides a clean foundation on which you can apply other products,” he adds, boosting how well they absorb and work; there’s no point spending tens of dollars on a vitamin C serum if you’re not washing your face. “Cleansing can keep the pores clear to prevent breakouts,” Dr. Zeichner continues, “and it can treat conditions like seborrheic dermatitis,” inflammation that causes red, flaky, and sometimes greasy patches of skin.
Should you cleanse your skin in the morning?
Cleansing is essential for healthy, happy skin, but it’s possible to go too far. “We live in a society of over-cleansers,” says Dr. Zeichner, “and cleansing the skin multiple times per day is not necessary.” As a rule of thumb, he recommends washing your face in the evening to remove oil, dirt, sunscreen, and makeup, but a morning cleanse isn’t always needed. What Dr. Zeichner says next surprises me as someone with perpetually greasy skin: “It’s unlikely that much will build up on the skin overnight to necessitate washing again in the morning,” he says — even if your skin leans oily.
Why should you wash your face in the morning?
But there’s a catch. Dr. Zeichner says certain skincare ingredients might call for an AM cleanse: “If you’re applying an acne cream [think something with benzoyl peroxide or adapalene, like Differin], or a treatment like retinol, I usually recommend washing it off in the morning before applying your skincare routine for the day,” he says.
Since your skin doesn’t accumulate the same amount of oil and grime overnight as it does during the day (provided you change your pillowcase regularly), you only really need something gentle. Consider a non-lathering, cream-based cleanser like Farmacy Green Clean Gentle Creamy Cleanser — a favorite of mine — packed with moisturizing glycerin and soothing oat. You could also try The Inkey List Hydrating Cream-To-Milk Cleanser with hyaluronic acid if you’re on a budget, or, if you have more to spend, Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser is a firm favorite among beauty editors and dermatologists.
Ultimately, much of the conversation around avoiding a morning cleanse stems from our growing obsession with looking after the skin barrier — what I think is a result of years of potentially compromising it with high-strength acids and retinoids. But here’s the thing: Dr. Zeichner says it’s unlikely that skipping a morning cleanse will meaningfully protect your skin barrier, the outermost layer of skin that keeps the good stuff in (like moisture) and the bad stuff out (like bacteria). In the same vein, not washing your face in the morning shouldn’t disrupt it, either. In other words, it’s all down to personal preference.
What is triple cleansing and is it good for your skin?
On the other side of the scroll, content creators are insisting that I should be triple-cleansing. Suddenly, a quick pass of micellar water followed by a foaming cleanser isn’t enough; there’s an extra step in the mix, usually a cream cleanser, sandwiched in between.
According to Dr. Zeichner, there are only a few instances where this might be needed. “If you have heavy soiling or makeup on the skin, then a double or even a triple cleanse may be needed to remove it fully,” he says. Perhaps you’re wearing sunscreen, long-wear foundation, powder, and a setting spray to lock everything in. A double cleanse — using micellar water followed by a water-based cleanser — is a solid option, but if you still notice makeup after drying your face, adding a gentle cream cleanser — like one of the three above — can help remove the remaining residue. Unless you’re layering that much product every day, though, a full triple cleanse isn’t really necessary, says Dr. Zeichner.
What’s the best cleanser for my skin type?
If you’ve got the frequency nailed, it’s time to figure out which cleanser you should use. “Too strong a cleanser in someone sensitive can lead to dryness and irritation,” says Dr. Zeichner, “but too weak a cleanser in someone oily means that it won’t effectively remove dirt and oil from the skin,” potentially resulting in breakouts. Matching the right cleanser to your skin’s needs is paramount.
The best cleanser for dry, sensitive, or reactive skin
Skin that’s on the drier side, or those who consider their skin to be sensitive or reactive, might like a creamy, non-foaming cleanser. The surfactants that create a lather can often be too strong, especially if overused, stripping the skin’s natural moisturizers (think ceramides and hyaluronic acid), making skin feel dry and tight. Try The Ordinary’s Glycolipid Cream Cleanser for Dry Skin — a firm favorite among R29 staffers. If you want some lather, but not too much, try Aestura Atobarrier365 Gentle pH-Balancing Foaming Cleanser, or Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Foam.
The best cleanser for oily and acne-prone skin
It’s the opposite for oily or acne-prone skin. Dr. Zeichner suggests a lathering cleanser or one that contains an exfoliator like salicylic acid. “This is a beta hydroxy acid that helps keep the pores clear and removes excess oil from the surface of the skin to clear breakouts,” says Dr. Zechner.
Paula’s Choice Clear Pore Normalizing Acne Cleanser is a favorite of mine for breaking down makeup and excess oil. I’ve also recently used Caudalie Vinopure Pore Purifying Gel Cleanser down to the last drop — a lightly lathering gel cleanser with exfoliating salicylic acid and hydrating glycerin.
The best cleanser for combination skin
Those with combination skin will do best with an in-between cleanser that starts as a cream but gently lathers on contact with water. I don’t know a dermatologist who doesn’t rate CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser, which effectively lifts away makeup without leaving skin feeling tight or like it’s going to crack. Also try First Aid Beauty Ultra Gentle Cream-to-Foam Face Cleanser with redness-reducing colloidal oatmeal and calming allantoin, or Korres Greek Yoghurt Foaming Cream Cleanser with soothing oat milk.
How should you cleanse your skin — and for how long?
Lastly, how you cleanse is key to happy skin. “Over-scrubbing the skin can lead to dryness and irritation,” says Dr. Zeichner. “While you may want a squeaky-clean feeling after washing, that represents post-wash dryness, which is harmful to the skin.” Gentle massaging movements, paying close attention to the hard-to-reach areas like around the nose, are more than enough, and try to aim for at least a minute. “Your skin should feel refreshed after cleansing,” concludes Dr. Zeichner, “but the best cleanser will respect the skin barrier and leave your skin hydrated rather than dry.”
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