This piece originally appeared in SAVEUR’s Spring/Summer 2026 issue. See more stories from Issue 206.
Growing tomatoes usually means months of watering, staking, and fussing over every shoot. But what if you could skip all that work and still harvest bigger crops than ever—without lifting a finger?
That’s what I find on Erich Stekovics’ farm in southern Austria, where he tends the world’s largest collection of tomato plants—over 7,000 varieties. After studying theology, soft-spoken Stekovics taught himself to work the land through close reading and observation, eventually amassing thousands of varieties and penning an encyclopedia on the species.
“The tomato is one of the three most intelligent plants on the planet,” Stekovics explains. “It’s been in existence for over 8,000 years and can be grown from Mexico to Siberia.” Each summer, he puts that belief into practice, coaxing enormous harvests in open fields using his own unconventional methods. “My three main rules for successful growing are simple,” he says. “Never water. Never cut, pinch, or prune. Never stake. Let the plant sprawl along the ground as it prefers.” (The approach works best in hot, dry summers with deeply prepared soil; in wetter or more extreme climates, some adjustment may be necessary.) By late summer, his fields are filled with reclining bushes heaving with fruit in virtually every color of the rainbow.
Spacing matters. Tomato plants fall into two types: determinate (bush) and indeterminate (cordon). Determinate plants need about 1.2 square yards each, while indeterminates need closer to 7.2 square yards each. “Give them the space they want and they’ll reward you with huge crops,” he says.
Stekovics starts his tomatoes in the spring from seed in the greenhouse. When the seedlings are four weeks old, each with exactly six leaves, he subjects them to two “near-death” periods, withholding water for up to a week at a time. “This teaches them to survive the summer,” he says. After six weeks, he waters the sturdy young plants and moves them into the ground. Two weeks after that, he covers the earth with straw, and stops watering completely.
Stekovics believes tomatoes are living archives of place. Their roots, he explains, don’t just draw water—they absorb the life of the soil. Under his philosophy, when a plant dies, its roots remain underground; if you sow a seed from that same tomato in the same spot, the new roots will “recognize” the surrounding organic material, which aids in its development and survival. “You’ll get your best tomatoes after five to ten years,” he assures me. He’s done the experiments to prove it.
After leaving Stekovics’ farm, I visit Michelin-starred restaurant Tian in Vienna. Chef Paul Ivić buys from Stekovics, and together we taste his tomatoes. They seem to hold the warmth of the region—some honey-sweet, others tart like citrus.
The following spring, back home in England, I try growing tomatoes the Stekovics way. By late summer, the plants sprawl freely across the soil, heavy with fruit. I turn the bumper crop into raw pasta sauce, bright salads, and simple soups and gratins. Left to themselves, my tomatoes have found their own rhythm—and maybe that’s the real secret: to let them, and the land, speak.
Stekovics’ Tomato Tips
1. Choose your plot: Give each plant 1–7 square yards of ground space, depending on variety (determinate tomatoes need less room than indeterminate).
2. Harden the seedlings: Withhold water for a week when the plants are just a couple of inches tall to build up their summer stamina.
3. Plant: Cover each seedling in 2 inches of soil over well-rotted manure in full sun.
4. Mulch: After 2 weeks, cover the ground with 4 inches of dry straw; no staking or watering from here on out as the plants spread.
5. Grow and harvest: Watch your tomatoes thrive on the vine, and enjoy your bounty!
Recipes
Tomato Salad With Basil-Pea Purée
Tiella Pugliese
Fresh Tomato Soup With Basil and Crayfish
Raw Tomato Sauce
Asparagus With Tomato Vinaigrette
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