I was five when I first learned that a person could have their own smell. I remember standing in my babysitter’s hallway, waiting for my mom, when the door opened, and a familiar scent slipped in before she did. Soft and powdery, it smelled like home and safety all at once, lingering on my hair long after her hug. Years later, I learned its name: L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake. Even now, catching it in the wild instantly takes me back to that hallway; my small hand gripping my backpack as I wait.
Growing up, my mom and grandma wore scents like that; perfumes that seemed as natural to them as their voices. My mom even saved coupons to buy her next bottle, which, to me, felt like the ultimate marker of adulthood. The beauty world calls it a ‘signature scent’: one fragrance that defines you, lingers after you’ve left, and becomes shorthand for who you are.
For almost a decade, I assumed I was meant to have one, too, but nothing ever quite fit the version of myself I imagined. Still, I believed in the perfect match — the kind you’re apparently not supposed to live without. Between glossy magazines and endless trips to the department store, I absorbed the idea that adulthood came with a defining fragrance, so it’s no surprise I thought I would find it.
What is a signature scent?
The idea of a signature scent itself carries a mythic quality in beauty culture. Marilyn Monroe, for instance, claimed she wore nothing to bed but a few drops of Chanel No.5 — the ultimate proof that a perfume could become part of a woman’s legend. Similarly, Givenchy L’Interdit — a soft blend of jasmine, orange blossom, and patchouli — was created for Audrey Hepburn, who wore it privately until it became available to the masses in 1957.
As such, finding “the one” is framed as inevitable in our beauty journeys, but the more time I spent wandering Duty Free fragrance halls and sampling every tester, the less convinced I became that identity — or smell — could live and thrive in a single bottle.
Wearing only one scent simply feels like eating the same meal every day. It removes the pleasure of discovery.
Nina Simona Briazu, cofounder of Torti Profumi
To Mona Kattan, founder of fragrance brand Kayali, the allure of a signature scent isn’t surprising: “There’s definitely something romantic about the idea of a signature scent — one fragrance people instantly associate with you,” she tells me. But in a world where new perfumes are launching almost daily, it seems many of us are shifting away from this concept, exploring layering and rotation to create distinctly personal fragrance identities.
Now, the idea of a single defining scent feels almost impossible. Moving beyond the one-bottle mindset reflects the times we’re in: experimental, ever-evolving, and inspired by everything around us. Curious, playful, and a little indulgent — that attitude is reflected in how we want to smell.
Is the idea of a signature scent outdated?
Touted as a rite of passage, the idea of a signature scent has always felt a little suffocating. As a pre-teen, I opted for Miss Dior with its powdery rose, iris, and musk, but it was like signing a lifetime lease on a scent that never felt quite right. Today, that one-bottle mindset feels outdated, and Chriselle Lim, founder and creative director of Phlur, appears to agree: “We’re now picking different scents for different moods, moments, or sides of ourselves, and layering them in ways that feel personal,” she tells me.
You see, old-school perfume culture prized consistency, but today, that rigidity feels out of step. Nina Simona Briazu, cofounder of Italian artisan perfume brand Torti Profumi, has an idea why: “In a world where we’re constantly evolving, limiting ourselves to smelling like one thing restricts our ability to explore,” she says. “Wearing only one scent simply feels like eating the same meal every day. It removes the pleasure of discovery.”
I love that perfume layering has turned getting dressed into a little ritual of self-expression. Every morning, I try on many versions of myself before I leave through the door.
The rise of the fragrance wardrobe — and how to build one
Monogamy has no place on my scent shelf, and Lim is inclined to agree. In fact, she thinks that ‘scent wardrobing’ is replacing one signature fragrance: “It’s similar to fashion,” Lim says, adding, “You start with a basic layer [for her, it’s always Phlur Missing Person] and then you layer on pieces that express how you feel that day.”
That said, I grew up watching my mom save for her “one” bottle, which shaped how I think about money and fragrance. I’ve always loved the idea of a fragrance wardrobe, but it came with an eye-watering price tag and sounded like a luxury that wasn’t meant for me. In the modern fragrance wardrobe, though, layering doesn’t always have to be so expensive.
Besides perfume, a fragrance wardrobe can consist of more affordable body mists, oils, lotions, and even shower gels that you can mix, match, and experiment with. It’s permission to reject “the one” and embrace all your sides without as many limits.
Lim believes that fragrance should never feel intimidating or exclusive: “Honestly, I don’t think it’s ever been this accessible,” she says. “At Phlur, we bring unique scents crafted by world-class perfumers at a more approachable price — and across playful, everyday formats,” Lim adds, including $26 body mists and $20 deodorants. Beyond Phlur, brands like Le Monde Gourmand, Salt & Stone, and Saltair make building a luxe-feeling ‘wardrobe’ possible without breaking the bank.
Kattan recommends starting small: “Think travel sizes or discovery sets,” she suggests (Kayali offers plenty), “or pair a favorite with something new.” She adds, “All of this allows people to experiment, play, and find what they love without committing.” One of Kattan’s ultimate favorites for layering is the viral Vanilla 28 Eau de Parfum. “I call it the perfect ‘topper’ because it adds a warm, comforting sweetness that works with anything,” says Kattan. Above all? “Trust your instincts,” says Kattan. “[Perfume] trends are fun, but the ones that resonate with you are the ones you revisit.”
I love that layering has turned getting dressed into a little ritual of self-expression. Every morning, I try on many versions of myself before I leave through the door, and my indecisiveness has never smelled so good. “Curiosity is beautiful,” echoes Kattan, “and we should all have a play.”
Why I’m rejecting the signature scent
What I’ve realized is that women who raised me, ironically, wore their signature scents like armor: my grandma and Chanel No.5; my mom and L’Eau d’Issey. I lost my grandma two years ago, but her perfume still sits on my dresser. I inhale it and she’s there — instant comfort, instant memory, my battle gear for when I need it most.
The myth of the signature scent lives in the memories, emotions, and the invisible threads connecting us to those who came before. And while I’ll always admire the concept, one single bottle can’t define a person. I want many versions of myself: bright and citrusy for chaotic mornings (like Jo Malone’s Lime, Basil & Mandarin), woody for nights when I want to feel grounded (think Miu Miu’s Fleur de Lait Eau de Parfum), and soft and nostalgic on Sundays (such as Phlur’s Honey Moon).
So I reject the idea of being defined by a single scent because life isn’t one note. And thankfully, neither am I.
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