If I were to rifle through your current skincare lineup, I’d bet I’d find at least one of the following: salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid. Thanks to brands like The Ordinary, Paula’s Choice, and Drunk Elephant, exfoliating acids have become staples in many routines. (Don’t ask me to pick a favorite — I’m loyal to all three.) From unclogging pores to fading hyperpigmentation and brightening dull skin, their benefits are well documented, but there’s another acid quietly vying for your attention, and if you have sensitive skin, might just replace what you’re using now.
Enter: citric acid.
What is citric acid, and how does it work in skincare?
Mariam Abbas, an advanced facialist, says citric acid is basically an acid — specifically an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) — and it comes from citrus fruits, which is where it gets its name.
“In high enough concentrations, citric acid can have an exfoliating effect on the skin,” says Abbas. It encourages old or dead skin cells to shed, revealing fresh, new cells and improving the appearance of dull skin, Abbas explains. It can also help unclog pores and prevent new breakouts, but it does all of this with far less irritation: “Citric acid is gentler than other alpha hydroxy acids,” she says. This is because its larger molecules aren’t absorbed into the skin as easily as glycolic acid’s much smaller ones. “As such, it is better tolerated as an exfoliating agent by sensitive skin,” says Abbas.
Is citric acid good for the skin?
Besides gentle exfoliation, Abbas says citric acid also has an antioxidant effect on the skin, helping protect it from things like smoke and pollution that can cause dullness or congestion. Not only that, but it can also boost the effectiveness of other antioxidants like trusty vitamin C: “In this way, it can indirectly have a brightening effect on the skin when used in combination with actives like vitamin C,” explains Abbas. That’s why you might spot it on the ingredient list of your favorite vitamin C moisturizer or serum.
How do you use citric acid in a skincare routine?
Because citric acid is such a beneficial addition, it appears in a wide range of skincare products, but mostly exfoliators. More often than not, citric acid is combined with other exfoliating acids, like glycolic or lactic acid — both of which also brighten the skin, unclog pores, and minimize hyperpigmentation. Think of citric acid as the supporting actor in your exfoliating cleansers, toners, leave-on exfoliators, or serums.
One of our favorite products — and a staple in many beauty editors’ skin, hair, and body routines — is The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toner. While glycolic acid is the star ingredient, citric acid also smooths rough texture, boosts radiance, and exfoliates skin. Top tip: It works just as well on a flaky scalp or rough feet as it does on your face.
If leave-on toners tend to irritate your skin, consider a wash-off cleanser instead. Abbas recommends Skin Better Science Refining Foam Cleanser, which combines citric acid with gentle AHA lactic acid and BHA salicylic acid. The salicylic acid penetrates a little deeper into the pores to break up the glue-like mixture of oil and dead skin cells that can lead to breakouts. If you have less to spend, try The Inkey List’s Salicylic Acid Cleanser, also with salicylic and citric acids.
Because citric acid has antioxidant benefits, you’ll also spot it inside plenty of brightening serums alongside vitamin C. Try Skinfix Barrier+ Serum with 15% vitamin C and antioxidant ferulic acid, or The Ordinary’s Multi-Antioxidant Radiance Serum, with ascorbyl glucoside — a version of vitamin C that’s kinder on reactive skin.
Are there any downsides to using citric acid in a skincare routine?
Lastly, Abbas notes that, like any exfoliant, citric acid can cause dryness, irritation, or sensitivity if overused or used in very high concentrations. She adds that it’s also sometimes added as a fragrance in skincare, which could trigger allergic reactions or irritation in those with perfume-sensitive skin. If this sounds familiar, it’s always worth patch-testing any new skincare product before applying it to your face. Try the inner elbow, neck, or the area behind your ear.
Explore our top citric acid skincare picks below.
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