Hearing the words, “Let me show you to the spa — your bags are already there,” was a far cry from the usual regrettable reminder that I’d arrived too early for hotel check-in.
I’d just pulled up to the grand entrance of The Retreat at Blue Lagoon, the luxury resort on the edge of Iceland’s world-famous Blue Lagoon, a picturesque geothermal spa. The brisk Icelandic air in September flushed through my nostrils, but fresh off an early morning flight, my lethargic body was longing for more rest and relaxation. Watching guests drift leisurely across the lobby in bathrobes and spa slippers, faces loose and carefree, only made me more eager to shrug off the flight.
A hotel receptionist, Nikos, led me to The Retreat Spa, tucked discreetly behind a large, sliding black door. As soon as the door slid open, I caught sight of steam curling up from the lagoon outside and hotel guests bobbing around the milky turquoise waters with mimosas in hand. With a warm and inviting smile, a spa staff member pointed me to my private changing room where my bags were already waiting, as promised.
Photos: Laura Zhang
Nikos shared two gentle reminders: first, to put conditioner in my hair before entering the lagoon. The geothermal seawater — though rich in skin-loving minerals like sulfur, silica, and magnesium — could leave my hair dry and knotty without a bit of protection. Second, he noted that the spa was a completely phone-free, unplugged space. If I wanted a photo, staff members would take one for me (all while making sure no other guests were in the background for ultimate privacy).
After seeing Blue Lagoon photos and videos splashed across social media for years, this small detail was refreshing, like stepping into a cocoon away from the rest of the world. Conditioner in, swimsuit on, I braved the chilly air for a few seconds before sinking neck-deep into the warm blue waters.
In September, even as the Blue Lagoon hits peak tourism, The Retreat Spa isn’t crowded — its own lava-rock-lined, staircase-style private lagoon is shared by just a handful of other guests. Inside, a long hallway splits off into more wellness corners: a sauna with lagoon views, a 42–46°F cold plunge, a steam room, ceiling-suspended egg chairs for quiet reading, and three relaxation rooms. My favorite was called the Lava Spring, faintly lit with oversized cabana cushions where you can lie back and watch droplets of water fall lightly onto the glass above.
By the time my room was ready, my shoulders had softened, I’d completely lost track of time — and truthfully, I wasn’t quite ready to leave the spa.
How to spa it up at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon as a solo traveler
The Retreat’s nearly 25,000-square-foot spa is a space you can easily dissolve into. It’s certainly where I stayed for several hours a day. Though The Retreat is often viewed as a couple’s getaway, I noticed plenty of solo guests and didn’t feel out of place while soaking alone in the private lagoon. With its long list of calming, healing-focused experiences, the spa feels designed for those moments when you just want to be completely still, serene, and unbothered.
Indulge in an in-water massage
Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
One of the most unique experiences I tried at The Retreat Spa was an in-water massage. Having never had one before, I wasn’t sure what to expect — would the deep tissue pressure translate in water? Would I really float for an hour, or would the Blue Lagoon swallow me whole? As those thoughts circled around in my mind, my massage therapist guided me onto a flotation mat in a private, secluded section of the Blue Lagoon reserved exclusively for these treatments. She tucked a soft pillow beneath my head, draped a blanket over me for warmth, and placed a small towel across my eyes to dim the brightness of the vast, open skies.
For the next hour, suspended in a weightless and dreamlike state, she worked a full-body massage with Blue Lagoon mineral massage oil. Every five to 10 minutes, she gently lowered me deeper into the water to envelop me in the volcanic warmth below. I drifted off, only to wake up to a soft whisper that the massage had ended, but I could stay floating for as long as I wanted to.
Experience the five-step Blue Lagoon ritual
Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
Another must-try spa experience is a 45-minute self-guided, skin-restorative journey known simply as “The Ritual” — something you could easily repeat every day of your stay. Think of it as the skin regimen to end all skin regimens. On my last day, I actually had the entire space to myself.
I was advised to start with 15-20 minutes in the sauna to open my pores, then move to an ambiently lit, spacious room with large rain showers and plenty of seating between steps. I applied a mineral salt scrub to my face and body to boost circulation, followed by a full-body coat of deep cleansing silica mud, left to dry and flake away for about 15 minutes before rinsing off. Last was a layer of algae paste, made from Blue Lagoon microalgae, left on for 5-10 minutes before one final rinse. The Ritual closed with the refreshing shock of an ice-cold towel against my face and a generous squeeze of almond-scented oil into my palms to seal in the moisture.
Refresh your skin with a BL+ resurfacing and sculpting facial
Unlike many facials I’ve experienced in my life that include a dreaded, not-so-pleasant pore extraction portion, this BL+ Resurfacing and Sculpting Facial is all about deep relaxation. For an hour, I relaxed as my facial therapist took over my skincare, from applying a deep-cleansing silica mud mask to carrying out the Aqua Peel resurfacing, using ultrasound technology that felt advanced without ever crossing into clinical. Like The Ritual and in-water massage, every treatment at The Retreat uses Blue Lagoon skincare products created directly from the mineral-rich geothermal waters.
After the hour, instead of my usual clumsy roll off the massage table, my facial therapist simply pressed a button and the bed lifted me slowly upright, easing me back into reality. And just when I thought the pampering was over, she handed me a parting gift: a bottle of BL+ eye serum to take home.
Start your morning with yoga with a view
Photo: Laura Zhang
Though not technically part of the spa, morning yoga from 9 to 9:45 AM is offered daily in a light-filled studio overlooking a wide stretch of moss-covered lava rock. I joined five other guests and a calm and patient instructor, Cecilia, for a gentle Hatha sequence that even an unseasoned yogi like me could easily follow. It’s the kind of experience that feels especially rewarding solo. Cecilia emphasized that there was no pressure to match anyone else’s pace and no judgment when it comes to wobbling in a pose. We moved slowly but still worked up a light sweat, closing out with a soothing shavasana and a meditative sound bath.
What it’s like to stay at The Retreat at Blue Lagoon beyond the spa
The rooms at The Retreat
Photos: Laura Zhang
As exquisite as The Retreat Spa is, the rooms are anything but ordinary. With just 60 suites in total — ranging from the Lava Junior Suite up to the two-story Blue Lagoon suite — each space is minimalistically styled but thoughtfully designed with comfort in mind. My 430-square-foot Lava Junior Suite came with human-centric lighting displayed as a glowing circle on the ceiling (changing in brightness and size as our own circadian rhythms shift), an Icelandic wool kaftan to drape on anytime during my stay, heated floors, and a freestanding bathtub facing the lava rocks and lagoon stream. It was the perfect place to wind down after a day at the spa, especially with no TVs in the room to align with the property’s digital detox philosophy.
I slept better here than I had in weeks, but one of the best perks? Guests can request a wake-up call from the front desk if the northern lights appear in the middle of the night. Suite prices start at $1,902 per night.
Dining at The Retreat
Photos: Laura Zhang
When it comes to dining, The Retreat’s restaurant lineup is reason enough to book a stay. The main attraction is Moss Restaurant, one of only three Michelin-starred restaurants in Iceland. Led by Chef Aggi Sverrisson — born and raised in Iceland, celebrated in London, and now back on home soil — Moss earned its star in 2023. The seven-course tasting menu showcases fresh ingredients, from locally sourced Icelandic seafood to pillowy A5 wagyu. Dish presentations mirror the raw, dramatic landscape outside: summer vegetables crowned with 60-month parmesan “antlers” representing wild reindeer, or the finale of macarons and bonbons served on top of lava rock and moss.
While Moss has a phenomenal wine pairing, and its Dom Perignon Society status ensures access to rare vintages, I personally opted for the non-alcoholic pairing and loved how thoughtful it felt. From the Pink Sunrise (with pear juice, mint, and vermouth extract) to the Weisser Pfeffer (with grape juice, white pepper extract, and white tea Bai Mudan extract), each glass was poured and presented like wine, even replicating wine’s color at times.
The other two restaurants, Lava and the Spa Restaurant, are both robe-friendly and more casual. Lava’s cod with apples, red onion, and shellfish is a favorite, served with hot bread and skyr-whipped butter, sea salt, and charcoal flakes.
The Spa Restaurant takes a lighter approach, offering sushi and Icelandic burrata as dishes you can nibble on between lagoon soaks.
Getting to The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
Photo: The Retreat at Blue Lagoon
The Retreat at Blue Lagoon is only 20 minutes from Keflavík International Airport (KEF) and less than an hour from Reykjavík by car. Guests can book private transfers through the hotel in advance, or rent a car directly at the airport from companies like Avis, Hertz, Budget, and Europcar.
