The rain started just past Gold River on Vancouver Island. Not a torrential downpour or dramatic thunderstorm, more like the kind of persistent, calm drizzle that makes moss greener and thoughts quieter. I cracked the window, letting the damp coastal air cut through the staleness of the inland heat I’d left behind. After a week of 85-plus degrees on the mainland, the cool, moist air was a balm.
I hadn’t arrived by floatplane as many glossy brochures suggest. I took the long way in, opting for an afternoon of rattling down a logging road, weaving through second-growth forest and fog. Gold River was my last brush with civilization. All I knew of it was stories of cougar attacks, mill-town ghosts, and fish big enough to carry off small dogs. I let some air out of my tires at the gas station, exchanged a few words with the friendly locals, and set off.
By the time I rolled into Moutcha Bay, a few screws loose from the washboard road, the rain had softened to an eerie mist, and the cedar buildings looked like they’d grown right out of the earth. Boats rocked gently in their slips. Seals broke the surface tension of the turquoise water. A raven watched me from a power pole.
Inside the Moutcha Bay Resort, I was greeted with warmth and the smell of woodsmoke and fresh coffee. The front desk had a tide chart pinned beside a chalkboard with records of that season’s biggest catches. Guests wandered through in rubber boots and fleece layers, winding down from a day’s fishing. Through my window, I could see the shape of the Conuma River as it emptied into the inlet, where I would head out and learn to saltwater fish over the coming days.
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
This trip took me through all three lodges of Nootka Marine Adventures, whose resorts take pride in giving guests access to some of the best salmon, halibut, and lingcod fishing on the island. I started at land‑based Moutcha Bay, floated through Nootka Sound Resort, and finished at offshore‑ready Newton Cove. Each stop revealed a new way to connect — with nature, food, and the local Nuu‑chah‑nulth history. I spent the next few days hopping from lodge to lodge, each one more remote than the last, in search of the wildlife, landscapes, and fish that stalked the dreams of fishermen in these parts.
Nootka Marine Adventures doesn’t have resorts in the typical sense. It’s a network of places shaped by rivers, stories, and stewardship. Sustainability is a priority. Not only does the CleanMarineBC operation promote conservation ethics and access for emerging anglers, but it also uses extensive waste separation and water treatment systems, and solar energy supports much of the main resort’s power.
The company has a long history supporting the local salmon enhancement and habitat restoration by raising funds for the Nootka Sound Watershed Society, as well as hosting fishing derbies that raise between $30,000 and $40,000 each year, in addition to securing funds from private interests. Nootka Marine Adventures also partners with Indigenous-led businesses and storytellers to integrate local cultural knowledge into the guest experience.
Whether you come for the fishing, the food, the culture, or the quiet, you’ll leave wanting more. This is coastal British Columbia the way it exists in the stories — rain-soaked, quiet, and pulsing with life.
Moutcha Bay Resort: A drive-in base for your first casts
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
Moutcha Bay Resort was the first stop on my Nootka Marine Adventures tour and the only property in the trio that’s accessible by car. The resort has chalets, yurts, and RV sites, making it a convenient choice for families, solo trippers, and budget travelers alike. I stayed in a heated cedar yurt with a kitchenette and a deck that was nicer than many five-star hotels I’ve stayed in. There’s WiFi, fish processing, and a marina with rentals.
Moutcha Bay Resort facilitates a hands-on, half-day Anglers Academy session that’s perfect for beginners or travelers who want a deeper understanding of West Coast techniques. The Anglers Academy also puts a premium on teaching sustainable fishing to youth and adults.
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
I came to learn how to fish, and that I did. I learned to work a downrigger, identify ideal depths, and process salmon — because what good is landing the fish of a lifetime if you can’t share it with friends? The thoughtful, conservation-minded conversations I had with the resort’s guides proved that they live what they teach. Book ahead and come with your rain gear and questions.
Rentals are available directly from Moutcha Bay’s marina. If time permits, you can paddle along the estuary where the Conuma River meets the saltwater. Look out for seals popping up, their heads a dead giveaway as they send ripples through the otherwise glassy water surface. A waterproof dry bag and camera are essential, and the marina staff is there to help you with tides, wind, and weather forecasting.
When you’re not busy adventuring, Moutcha Bay Resort’s on-site restaurant, Conuma Grill, serves hearty, seasonal fare. I recommend the smoked salmon chowder and whatever special is listed on the chalkboard. Ingredients are locally sourced whenever possible.
Nootka Sound Resort: A floating lodge for fishing without the frenzy
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
Nootka Sound Resort is a floating lodge with ensuite rooms, gourmet meals, and shared lounge spaces. It’s quiet, well-appointed, and perfect for couples or groups looking to unplug and fish (or just relax). Getting there isn’t too challenging but a bit more of an adventure than driving into Moutcha Bay Resort — but that’s part of the appeal.
Guests take a short lodge transfer by boat to the floating resort tucked into Galiano Bay, where the protected waters set the tone for a laidback pace. Mornings begin early, starting with coffee and ending with fish. Afternoons are slow and relaxed, fueled by high-quality packed lunches, naps in your suite, time in the lounge with a drink in hand, or a paddle around the bay.
For DIYers, you can bring your own boat and gear, or book a signature experience, which provides all-inclusive guided charters and takes the guesswork out of planning. The guides here are local experts who practice catch limits, habitat awareness, and ensure ethical angling from start to finish — making this an ideal spot for travelers who want great fishing without a hard-edged, high-pressure vibe. It’s equal parts adventure and ease, designed for people who want to be immersed in Nootka Sound while still feeling taken care of.
Newton Cove Resort: A remote base for adventurers who like a bit of luxury
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
The most remote and luxurious of the three resorts, Newton Cove includes private docks, cozy suites, and world-class service. Meals here feel more like a chef’s table than a remote lodge. From spot prawn risotto to house-cured lingcod, the plates showcase Vancouver Island ingredients, many from their sister farm in Black Creek. Everything runs with sustainability in mind, from water use to waste management. Book early during peak salmon season.
Accessible only by water or floatplane, Newton Cove offers world-class guided fishing and lodge luxury with minimal footprint. The boat ride itself is worth the trip. You’ll pass secret beaches, spot bear and elk, and pass fishermen hauling in their catch. The fishing grounds are incredible, with offshore and sheltered options available depending on the weather, but the peaceful setting also offers plenty for those who aren’t fish-obsessed. Spend the day chasing chinook and coho salmon, lingcod, halibut, or simply explore the sound on the resort’s water bikes.
Just around the corner from Newton Cove Resort is Yuquot, or Friendly Cove, the ancestral home of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations and the place where Captain James Cook first came ashore to what’s now British Columbia. This event ultimately marked the beginning of the sea otter fur trade, a pivotal moment in the province’s history. Today, Yuquot is home to First Nations master carver Sanford Williams. Ask lodge staff about opportunities to learn from local First Nations guides, their complex history, and about the opportunity to visit Sanford’s workshop. This isn’t a scheduled tour but a shared experience made possible by trust and an ongoing relationship with the local First Nation community, and I highly recommend it.
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
Yuquot also marks the southern terminus of the Nootka Trail and is a site of deep historical and cultural importance. The Nootka Trail is a 23-mile remote backcountry trail along the western coast of Nootka Island, located on the traditional lands of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations. It’s considered one of the most immersive wilderness hikes in British Columbia. Today, Friendly Cove can be reached via the MV Uchuck III vessel departing from Gold River, by water taxi, or by floatplane. Wolves, bears, and cougars frequent this area, so practice good bear safety and leave no trace ethics while visiting.
Getting to and around the Nootka Marine Adventures resorts
Photo: Christie Fitzpatrick
Drive from the mainland with a ferry transfer to Nanaimo, or fly into Comox and rent a car. The drive to Moutcha Bay is roughly 2.5 hours west through the stunning Strathcona Provincial Park. The road becomes gravel past Gold River but is well-maintained in the summer by a grader. Boat transfers to the floating lodges are arranged directly through Nootka Marine Adventures, and floatplane options are also available for those short on time.
Once at Moutcha Bay, everything is walkable, from the lodge to the marina to the restaurant. Lodge-to-lodge transfers are included in most packages or easily arranged. Bring sturdy shoes, a waterproof daypack, and a reusable water bottle (there are refill stations at each resort).
