“I came out to Jackson for one winter,” says Paul, a Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) ski instructor, over lunchtime wings. “That was 25 winters ago.”
It’s a locals’ origin story that would come to seem familiar over the course of three winter days in Wyoming’s Jackson Hole valley.
Few American mountain towns wed elegance and Wild West charm as well as Jackson. But beyond the slopes of famed JHMR and a constellation of award-winning restaurants, bars, and boutiques that bring couture to the world of the cowboy, there’s a sense of welcome at the heart of the valley. Visitors to Jackson Hole can experience that mix of elegance and welcome at the Wyoming Inn.
One booking, two sets of amenities
Photos: Wyoming Inn
Inside, the 69-room hotel on the edge of town represents quintessential Wyoming lodge luxury. A giant stacked-stone fireplace and elk-antler decor greet guests in the lobby. In the guest rooms, leather armchairs, warm wood trim, and window seats invite lingering over the Wyoming winter scene outside. The Wyoming Inn balances that welcoming interior with the inspiration to get outdoors and the amenities to recharge afterward.
Situated about a mile from downtown Jackson and about 10 miles from JHMR, the Wyoming Inn allows for quick access to amenities but at a relaxed remove from activity, with an on-demand hotel shuttle eliminating the hassles of finding parking on mountain or on Jackson’s bustling streets (an added relief for those visitors not accustomed to Wyoming winter driving).
Meanwhile, a short walk away, The Lodge at Jackson Hole, the sister property to the inn, offers ski storage, a sauna, and a pool for guests of both properties, perfect for soaking sore ski legs. It all comes packaged at rates that make it affordable both for families and couples on a budget, with rooms available under $300 during the winter.
A smart base camp for winter adventures
Photo: Aaron Theisen
I’d come to Jackson Hole for a group trip to explore the area’s winter-adventure possibilities using the Wyoming Inn as a base camp. As I descended into Jackson Hole Airport on the south edge of Grand Teton National Park — the only commercial airport located in a national park — that first day, early-season snow frosted the pyramidal peaks of the Tetons. Although I’ve flown into Jackson Hole before, it’s a window-seat vista that never fails to inspire.
After being shown to our rooms at the inn, we boarded the gondola at the base of the steep face of Snow King Mountain Resort en route to Snow King Observatory & Planetarium. The first observatory serviced by a ski-resort lift in North America, Snow King’s state-of-the-art solar telescope benefits from its enviable position above some of the darkest night skies in the country. The public benefits from Snow King’s devotion to providing a family- and budget-friendly experience, with planetarium shows and evening stargazing experiences. Our summit-top dinner at Aurora, complete with fondue and a starlit view, demonstrated that Snow King dazzles outside the planetarium, too.
Refreshed by our first night at the inn, the next morning our group strolled the sidewalks of downtown. The four iconic antler arches at the corners of Jackson Town Square, at the heart of downtown, epitomize the city: a blend of the West, both old and new, and a seamless integration of spaces indoors and out. Inside the adjacent boutiques, we browsed art and furnishings from cowboy to contemporary, all while entertaining thoughts of getting duded-up at a boot-fitter or hat-maker for a night of line dancing at the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar across from the square.
Photo: Aaron Theisen
Coffees and shopping bags in hand, we departed downtown for Astoria Hot Springs Park, about 20 minutes south of Jackson. Fed by natural thermal waters flowing up from one of the most geothermally active regions of the US, Astoria features a half-dozen human-made pools, including a kid’s pool, cold plunge, and two lower-level quiet pools that encourage guests to silently soak in their surroundings. With a mission to provide equitable access to this unique ecosystem, Astoria has kept the springs affordable, with an adult non-resident price of $25, all of which funds the nonprofit conservancy that maintains the nature park on which the hot springs sit. Late-afternoon sun splashed across the grassy foothills of the Snake River as we scanned the slopes for moose, elk, and other resident wildlife.
Relaxed by our hours at Astoria, we wound down the evening at The Whistling Grizzly, the Wyoming Inn’s on-site restaurant. Beloved by lodge guests and locals alike, The Whistling Grizzly offers a refined but relaxed take on traditional American cuisine, with a menu showcasing wild game, including seared trout and an elk tenderloin so well-prepared that other restaurants in town recommend it. Over shared plates of braised-beef short rib “pops” and jumbo shrimp, our group toasted to quick friendships made in the way that only hot springs and warm hospitality can.
The Jackson Hole experience, on and off the slopes
Photo: Aaron Theisen
The following morning, the hotel’s on-demand shuttle dropped me off at JHMR’s doorstep. Through film segments and freeride competitions, the ski resort has earned a heady reputation, its iconic 100-person aerial tram accessing some of the steepest ski terrain in North America, like the mandatory drop-to-chute of Corbet’s Couloir. And while an unseasonably warm start to winter across the West laid bare ski terrain that would otherwise be in play, it also revealed an underlying fact: destinations cannot control the conditions, but through great service and amenities, they can ensure that guests have a memorable experience.
After cruising soft groomers under the sun all day, I watched Paul, one of JHMR’s team of hundreds of instructors, coach a first-timer in my group into a credible skier. Like Paul, many of the resort’s instructors have decades of teaching experience, and also like Paul, many came to ski for a winter and never left.
(And in the two weeks following our visit, the mountain received more than six feet of snow for one of its deepest Decembers on record, proving that mountain town fortunes can change in an instant.)
That night, stepping out of my hotel robe into the hot tub and soaking my out-of-practice calves, I realized that luxury goes beyond price tag. Jackson Hole’s true luxury lies in its priceless night skies, deep snow, steaming hot springs, and jagged mountain ranges. And the Wyoming Inn makes the area’s rarefied air attainable — and welcoming — for the budget-conscious traveler.
Some of them may even come for a winter and stay for a lifetime.
